This study analyzes the history and evolution of Malvasia in the Atlantic, particularly in the Canary Islands and Madeira, challenging many historical accounts widely accepted as fact. Using historical sources, testimonies, and recent ampelographic studies, it raises reasonable doubts about the origin, authenticity, and varietal classification of the different Malvasia varieties.
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Uncertain origin: It is disputed whether Malvasia arrived in Madeira via Henry the Navigator or whether it was predominant in the 15th century. Its popularity grew from the 16th century onwards.
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Malvasía in the Canary Islands: The variety was of little importance in Tenerife in the 16th century. Its commercial boom came later, driven by the English market.
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Exported wine ≠ consumed wine: The Malvasia wine exported to England was not the same as that consumed there, as it was modified (brandy added, aged, dyed).
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Decline and adaptation: From the 18th and 19th centuries, the Canary Islands vineyards declined due to pests (powdery mildew, downy mildew, phylloxera) and changes in trade. Malvasía was replaced in many areas by vidueños.
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Malvasía de Lanzarote vs. La Palma: The current Volcanic Malvasía de Lanzarote is a distinct, more resistant variety, the result of crossing a Sitges Malvasía with a Bermejuela. The greatly reduced Malvasía de La Palma is the same as the Sitges Malvasía.
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Misconceptions: The idea that Malvasía de La Palma is the "authentic" variety is debunked. The author argues that Malvasía Volcánica is more deeply rooted, present, and unique.
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Research at El Grifo: Highlighting an R&D project to study the aromatic potential of Malvasía Volcánica, with the aim of defining its varietal character and improving its vinification.
